The ultimate bespoke watch strap guide

Design a strap that fits your watch—and your style—perfectly.

1. The Measurements (Crucial Step)

Strap Width

This is the most technical part. You will see two numbers (e.g., 20/18mm).

• First number (Lug Width): The distance between the "horns" of your watch case. It must match exactly.

• Second number (Buckle Width): The width at the buckle end. A "taper" (e.g., 20mm narrowing to 16mm) creates a vintage, elegant look, while a straight strap (20/20mm) looks sportier and bolder.

Strap Length

This determines how the strap fits your wrist circumference.

• Small (105/70mm): For thin wrists (approx. 15-16.5cm).

• Medium (115/75mm): The industry standard (approx. 16.5-18cm).

• Large (125/85mm): For larger wrists (18cm+).

• Note: The first number is the long part (tail), the second is the short part (buckle side).

2. The Profile & Shape

Thickness

• Flat (2-2.5mm): Thin and sleek. Best for dress watches and vintage timepieces that need to slip under a shirt cuff.

• Padded (Round or Square profile): Has volume in the center. Adds substance and robustness. Ideal for chronographs (like Speedmasters) or larger modern watches.

Tip Shape

The shape of the strap's end (the tail).

• Classic / Boat: The standard pointed tip. Timeless elegance.

• Square: Often associated with vintage styles or Panerai watches.

• Round: A softer, more contemporary look.

3. The Finishing Details

Stitching

• Tone-on-Tone: The thread matches the leather color exactly. Discreet and dressy.

• Contrast Stitching: Usually white or cream thread on dark leather. Highlights the craftsmanship and gives a sporty racing look.

Edges

• Cut Edge (Rembordé): The sides are painted/waxed. Clean and modern.

• Folded Edge: The leather is wrapped around the side. Very classic and durable.

Lining (The inner side)

• Calf Leather: Comfortable and soft. Traditional feel.

• Rubber / Caoutchouc: Highly recommended if you live in hot climates or sweat often. It protects the alligator leather from moisture and extends the strap's life.

4. Hardware & Functionality

Buckle Pin Notch

• Yes: Select this if you plan to use your own buckle that has a central pin (ardillon).

• No: Select this only if you are using a Deployant Clasp (butterfly style) that does not require a pin slot.

Quick Release Springbars

• Standard: Requires a tool to remove the strap.

• Quick Release: Features a small knob allowing you to change straps with your fingernail in seconds. Highly recommended for versatility.

Loops (Keepers)

• Standard: One fixed loop (near the buckle) and one floating loop.

Wide: A single, wider floating loop (often seen on military or heavy-duty styles).